Russian vodka bar in Toronto brings Moscow a mere bar stool away, with a unique and authentic ‘straight-up’ experience. At Pravda, named after the first communist newspaper meaning 'truth,’ the number one essential is more than covered: Vodka.

Behind the bar, under the bar, on shelves, in a glass armoire, in almost every hand, 40-60 types of vodka wait at any given time. The goal of Pravda is to be a culturally specific establishment while remaining cross-cultural in who's drinking there. 'Matryoshka' (Russian wooden dolls) between vodka bottles, light fixtures a melange between Fabergé egg and street lamp, Ol' Hammer and Sickle and portraits of Russians on the walls (find Stalin in the men's WC) backed by live jazz Thursdays and Fridays create an odd but successful compote. The question is, at what cost to authenticity?

Substituting Russian music to create a more accessible western feel is a toss up with direction of intent. Music is one of the most crucial vibe boosters/killers in an establishment and so how far authentic does one go before one's establishment becomes exclusive and so cut off from 'foreigners.' A Russian bar with Davis and Coltrane played by a quartet in white suits hurts the exoticism, but perhaps it is necessary for success at 36 Wellington with establishments such as Bymark so close. The bar will do exceedingly well, but it wouldn't hurt to turbo-charge the Russian aspect (separately owned-similar idea Pravda of New York is famous for this approach).

Nevertheless, a full out clean cut jazz band will always make a place appealing and the Saxophonist (not looking for handouts) getting off stage and playing to patron's tables makes a place intimate (people applaud after every song). A small, two tabled, mismatched sofa lounge at the back makes for a ambient nook with a low jazzy din; why else would all these young cool kids, suits, T-shirts, low riding pants, be in line if this place wasn't fabulous?

Lest you think this place is all show and has no real point to it, I’d like to make it clear that owner Rumen Dimitroff (Bravi) has created a method to break patrons into trying the vodkas with 'taster trays' - 3 1/2 ounce glasses of different vodkas (ever heard of fifty year old Polish vodka Siwusha?) served chilled - in small frosted shot glasses carved from blocks of ice! - with the necessary rye and pickles. Caviar floats around the room like it were the Caspian Sea. Black Sturgeon roe, Salmon roe, Fly Fish roe on blinis trio for $14 will affordably give you the chance to try it for the first time while impressing your date pretending you're an aficionado.

Pravda will teach you the world of vodka, Russian style. There's something to be said about the process of sniffing dark rye bread then shooting vodka then eating sour pickles then repeating. Some large fruit garnished lifeline martinis ($5 5pm-7pm Monday-Friday) such as the 'Red Square' and a few bottled beers are available and provided by attentive staff but Pravda is a mostly specialized establishment that won't be fully appreciated for all it is worth by enemies of vodka.

Fiery as Smirnoff and icy smooth as Belvedere, if you want an authentic (sans music) vodka experience, Pravda is a sweet contender. Whether you appreciate Pravda is largely a dela vkusa - which is to say, in Russian, a matter of taste. - Andrew Byer



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Reader Reviews

pravda
georg, Sofia
November 27, 2004
simple, sweet and thuly russian


parallels the temperature of Moscow in December.
a bodnar, Toronto
November 14, 2004
This place is the ultimate worst for service. The wait staff's attitude parallels the temperature of Moscow in December. To begin, I waited at the door at this empty restaurant for a while before one the servers acknowledged me. once seated, We then got moved from the table by another server because apparently that's where "the band" sits. I had then memorized the menu before someone finally took our drink order. The drinks arrived very watered down during the happy hour special and their idea of compilmentary appetizers are simply pickles. I know this is a Russian joint but please. I suggest everyone walks a few doors east to the Reservoir's happy hour. The Reservoir's wait staff is fantastic as are the drinks; and free food is plentiful!