f it's dazzle you're looking for, you won't find it here. What you will find are home style dishes from homemade gnocchi to duck liver are served in a relaxed Italian enclave.

This Italian bistro (Lotus, then Bosco and now Nonna's) has styled itself as a friendly little tucked-away haven. And it really is. A heaping plate of spinach salad with grilled calamari ($7.95) is bathed in a sweet, rich dressing, made simply from balsamic vinegar and cream, with plenty of large, tender pieces of calamari atop a bed of fresh leaves. The mussels ($8.95) are equally impeccable, in a tasty tomato basil sauce with garlic, scallions and a shot of white wine.

The Spaghetti is dressed simply with olive oil and white wine, scallions, garlic and chunks of smoked prosciutto, the fresh chilies and ground pepper giving piquance, while perfectly gorgeous black olives add the finishing touch. The duck liver ($10.95) is served in a decidedly un-Italian fresh-diced tomato jalapeno pepper sauce on a heap of basmati rice. The livers are tender and juicy with a smooth texture, and while the jalapenos give the sauce heat, it's most notably rich with the flavour of port or armagnac, resembling the sauce for a foie gras.

For dessert, there's locally made Sicilian ice cream, a welcome change from the ubiquitous tiramisu. Smoking. Reservations accepted. - Brad Jamieson

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