ike legions of people currently residing in Toronto, Sydni and Albert Banh aren't from here. Hailing from Seattle, the two relocated to Toronto, clinging onto the carcass of Aunties and Uncles on Bathurst and Queen, whipping it into a gallery chic space to serve functional Vietnamese cuisine.

Sydni and brother Albert found themselves drawn to the cozy Bathurst Street café, as Aunties and Uncles had just closed up shop, in which they often bemoaned the lack of sophisticated Vietnamese restaurants in Toronto. They instantly knew they had found their spot for their restaurant. In mid-January, after three months of re-design, they opened their doors.

Their interpretation of a serious Vietnamese restaurant succeeds on most levels. As a gathering place, it cheerfully welcomes patrons into its now sleek embrace, a small room with slate floor tiles, white-washed walls sparsely adorned with art, and wooden chairs. Lalot seats about 40 in the dining room's minimalist square footage, at wooden tables with designer cafeteria chairs. A stainless steel and granite bar is comfortable and inviting.

The minuscule size of the Spartan kitchen - no more than a countertop furnished with an oven - does not reflect the generosity of its repast. Heeding the traditions of Vietnamese cuisine, chef Albert Banh has created a simple menu, but one that in no way skimps on quality or creativity. Less is more here, except when it comes to price.

Lalot is to be admired for insisting on an all-Vietnamese menu: no Thai or Chinese favourites in sight. Whatever Americanization the food has undergone is expected and not even unwelcome: Animal protein and portions are big. But a side effect, at least in some of the dishes we sampled, is a muffling of flavours. Lemon grass isn't evident in dishes that would benefit from its brightness, and many sauces lack the zing of fresh lime juice.
These omissions don't make the food bad; it's just duller than expected. Care is apparent in everything from the tables' neatly aligned chopsticks to the attractively presented appetizer selection, which offers a sampling of Bahn’s strengths and weaknesses.

Starters are substantial enough to satisfy the desire for a bite to eat, but not so large they overwhelm the appetite before dinner. A fresh spring roll, thin and filled with ground pork, and shrimp are crisp and tasty, but the accompanying sauce provides a slick sweetness and some saltiness from fish sauce without the expected zing of lime juice and garlic. The best appetizer item is the Vietnamese tamarind soup; a bowl of spicy, hot broth, shrimp, chicken breast. jalapeno peppers and tamarind fruit.

Another appetizer to consider is the marinated beef flank with basil and jicama in betel leaves, Looking for some crunch that doesn't involve a deep-fryer? Try the refreshing wok-fried green beans ($9), in which a kick of chili and pickled radish brightens the mix of an otherwise bland bean dish.
On to entrées, a good choice is the drunken chicken ($15) deep-fried, just-chewy-enough all white-meat chicken strips, served with a heavy sauce of ginger and rice wine that counterattacks the once crispy chicken meat.

The filet mignon sounds enticing, but although not exactly tender, it's served a perfect medium rare, as ordered, and the oxtail reduction glaze brought a traditional steak more alive than you might think. A livelier Catfish ($18.00), is a hot pot dish, billed as spicy and served with a sauce of caramelized sugar, Chardonnay, coconut juice, but neither sensation is detectable unless you bite into a sliver of fresh Thai chili. It's a good dish nonetheless.

The whole place is a good dish. The room has changed so dramatically. Faint recorded Vietnamese music drifts through the air. Service is sweet and very enlightening on the offerings, efficient and keeping the spirit as the evening wears on and room fills up. The corner of Queen and Bathurst is not the sexiest intersection in town, but Lalot puts a little spark back to the ‘hood.

Review This Place

Reader Reviews

Frederico, Toronto
July 22, 2003
Great food, great space, and great service,what more can one ask for. I was very happy with the overall restaraunt and its staff. Thanks for the tip on finding this gem in the queen-west area.


great space!
Frederico Toronto
May, 18, 2003
Great food, great space, and great service,what more can one ask for. I was very happy with the overall restaraunt and its staff. Thanks for the tip on finding this gem in the queen-west area.