The energy is cranked at this Malaysian-fare drinking den at the tip of Trinity Bellwoods. Revamped last year by film art director Kei Ng, the place is donned in basement rec-room patterns and textures. In the spirit of geometric harmony large octagonal prints decorate the brick-exposed walls, while hanging globes and other groovy items garnish the bare undersized lounge. Bamboo window shades release a romantic amber light that glazes the place with a fireside like illumination.

The nonpartisan music serves up a delicious fusion of lounge, funk and all the desired soup and nuts in between. As eclectic as the music, the crowd includes a mixture of locals and the Queen Street Swarm mingled with Toronto’s chill downtown people.

THE FOOD
Unity underscores the success of this adapted Malaysian menu. Kei Ng clearly worked hard to manage a wide repertoire of flavours with a few flavoured ingredients (freshwater chestnut, shiitake mushrooms and coriander) and simple, well-executed techniques (marinating and sautéing). Nearly everything we tried tasted like more than the sum of its ingredients.

The carrot crepe, for example, a side item that came with our entrees, held a filling that was merely carrot, butter, salt, pepper and a little brown sugar. Yet it was savory -- light, buttery, but not too sweet. The Mom's Special combo offers organic chicken and goose liver sausage, a special that appears as a regular menu item, was a tender but small cut of chicken served amongst rice, piquant shiitake mushrooms and black beans. Daikon soup ($5) is an adventurous take on the egg drop soup, but with Parmesan-enhanced broth with a garnish of bonito flakes. Flavourful, and the lively bowl will be a conversational piece at the table.

The only disappointment was the Nasi dagang. This is a dish made with curried canned tuna, and spiced further with fenugreek. The dish, in this case, seemed overly accented with the earthy flavors involved. And, we pondered, it’s just canned tuna.
A few playful items are also worth mentioning: the popular appetizers that are curry potato puffs, tuna puffs, shrimp dumplings and the sublime Gado Gado salad. This is fried tofu and bean sprout salad accented with earthy flavors such asjicama root, cucumber and egg, with a side of Kei-made mango chutney.

Ng's signature condiments: Mellow mango chutney and very spicy tamarind sauce are both made from scratch. Both have a serious bite, and come with most dishes.
Waiters seem a bit on the inexperienced side but are friendly enough. Service will never be very efficient given the overcrowded little room, whose traffic flow is surprisingly awkward for a restaurant that was adapted from a former greasy spoon.

Apart from the crowding, the 37 seat room is fun, and keeps you lingering long after the dishes are cleared. In fact, late in the night, Kei becomes an all-out lounge, with a good traffic flow turning up for the sublime signature martini: The Tiger Balm Martini.




Review This Place

Reader Reviews_______________________________

Cool Concierge, Toronto
July 1, 2002
We went to Kei Saturday night. everyone thought the food and atmosphere was great. It's nice to see generations mingling for a change, too. We saw twenty-somethings to fifty-somethings all seeming to have a good time in the same restaurant/lounge. My only complaint is that the waitstaff is sometimes too attentive.


To the point
June 25, 2002
Sam Cehajic, Toronto, ON
I would like to make my review as short as possible. The food, to put it simply, is mouthwatering. Keep it up Kei. I am very proud of you.


Yeah Kei!
Gordon Kelly, TOronto,ON
June 22
Good to see Kei getting lots of press. For one year we had it to ourselves, now you have to fight for one of the dozen or so tables.


Fairly fun
Dan T., Toronto, ON
June 20.2002
Average fare. Great Vibe!