he rise of the high-quality neighbourhood restaurant, spurred no doubt by ever-increasing numbers of well-trained ex-fancy -sous-chefs being unleashed on the marketplace, has been one of the most impressive areas of improvement in Toronto dining over the past couple of years.

Crush landed on King Street West of Spadina offering a chic bistro/dining room setting for lunch and dinner on a block that's home to a growing number of dining options. With a spacious interior, superb wine selection and a creative menu, Crush holds its own.

Owner Jamieson Kerr has created a bit more than a mere bistro. Not to get lost in the King West District, it is strategically placed, sharing patio space with Brassaii, and is a dramatically crafted dining room. Kerr wisely chose a minimalist, wood-and-earth-tones design scheme that keeps the focus on the tall windows allowing signs of city life to pour in.

Upon entering, but before reaching the dining room, you pass a long bar area, all dark oak and dramatic; bottles of wine line the wall behind it. 163 private imports, moderately priced. And about 30 of them are available by the glass, from $5 to $17. Great for sampling until your table’s ready.

Chef Scott Kaplan mans the stoves. And his menu will seem slightly familiar, although much originality has been put into the production of the plates. Menu items include the likes of terrine of whole foie gras dressed with fresh young pastis-scented leaves, or the delicately prepared steak tartar.

There are few distractions from the enjoyment of food. A jovial banter emanates from the bar while a mildly entertaining buzz comes from the huge open kitchen at back of the room. With Crush being an all oak element, it expresses great warmth.

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