ow do you say pretentious in a nice way? The fabulosi sip on Cosmos and various fusion Martinis at the sexy Coco Lezzone bar because it's the thing to do, apparently. But plan to wait awhile because this bar is always packed with thirsty, demanding folks.

You'll feel like you're in NY during Fashion Week at this College Strip boite that's been adopted by the hipsters. Very nice in terms of scene, and the the location is fabulous. On the minus side, the service is still figuring it out and the food, while not technically bad, it just seems overpriced for a second fiddle. But come on, these kinds of places are all about the scene anyway, so enjoy the tasty drinks and beautiful crowd. Cocktails are $8 and up.

Though the food is characterized by a range of strong individual flavours, a frustrating number of dishes are sacked by unconvincing combinations. The Mediterranean menu is fine, but best bets are the daily specials. In keeping with the tradition established by its neighbours -- Teatro, Bar One, etc. --the Lezzone fare quintessentially Italian. The dinner menu offers seasonal selections to keep it interesting, but regulars still swear by the scrumptious seafood variety. This seems to be the strength here.

Salads include a light composition of organic greens with baby carrots and hickory nuts, and an earthy mix of grilled leeks and asparagus with tiny dried tomatoes and wasabi. Another composition presents warm goat cheeses alongside a vertical salad of cucumbers, olive bread and almonds drizzled with tomato vinaigrette, in a sort of panzanella tower.

A few entrées on the menu sounds enticing, but I'd make room for sauteed sea bass, over fingerling potatoes and a tomato-saffron-remoulade sauce; and the New York strip loin served with designer vegetables and new potatoes.

This welcoming nightspot slums conspicuously alongside bohemian boutiques and other similar cafés. College Strip crawlers are drawn to the lounge for pre-clubbing drinks, an SUV commuter crowd flocking to its bistro. Light sculptures hover around the darkened rooms, casting a warm glow, but beware: Some poke awkwardly into tête-à-tête table spaces.

Upshot
A favorite pit stop for well-proportioned cocktails and tasty starters before the night games begin.


Write a Review
Read All Reader Reviews