Poor Citrus seems to be lost in a rather sketchy part of Jarvis Street, but you certainly have to give credit to The Grand Hotel for retrofitting this old police headquarters building in the first place.

Located in The Grand - watch for the valet station to mark the spot - the Citrus dining room is a sophisticated solarium-enclosed lounge with oversized chairs, oak tables and a terrace in an attitude-free zone.

The dining room proper is located on the main floor with a fine view, but you can't help but feel that the room, as nice as it is, was designed specifically for the occupants of the hotel, not locals.

The menu features a ton of exotic cocktails, appetizers and entrées. Best of the menu includes a large portion of tender, moist, herb-crusted halibut, which is flanked by red cabbage with a heavenly, buttery mound of silky-smooth sweet-potato purée that approaches perfection. Penne with roasted vegetables in an arugula pesto is cooked nicely al dente, although the dish is somewhat bland. On another visit we complained that the daily pasta, as fettucine with beef tenderloin, was gooey and harsh-tasting and our server took it off the bill despite the fact that we had eaten most of it anyway. The staff are clearly trained to please thy guest

Though not one of the most exhilarating spots in town, Citrus is a hidden - right-in-front-of-you-all-along - secret.


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