Grand, even exhilarating at times, but showcasey, and slightly overrated.

The Place
Whether the focus be on the grand room, the exhilarating menu, or a $500 bottle of California cab, Centro has become one of the city's most successful, respected, and influential restaurants of the current generation. Almost five years have passed since executive chef Bruce Woods and manager Tony Longo bought Centro from its creator, Franco Prevedello, and the place now seems entirely their own.

The Vibe
Dining-room service at Centro has always been good, but there used to be serious attitude at the door. No longer. Everybody from the reservationist to the busser is genuine, relaxed, professional. Waiters proceed with effortless authority even when serving your tenderloin (it comes with adorable little stuffed vegetables that look like marzipan). Just as you'll forget Prevedello’s absence, you'll forget the staff's discreet presence. At least until they bring dessert, which holds its own with the rest of the menu, including the best chocolate soufflé I've had in recent memory.

The Food
This isn't food that dances on a tightrope. The spice-crusted bass entrée is the best dish on the menu, though foie gras lovers won't be able to resist the squab, served on a corn pancake. I don't generally favor tenderloin cuts of meat because, though they're tender, they often lack flavor. Not so at Centro, where lamb loin packs a serious punch, thanks to a crust of black trumpet mushrooms. Were I to make one principled objection to Centro's approach, it would be that the menu exhibits a disappointing lack of seasonally.

Two sommeliers work the dining room at all times, and wine service is exceptional. A world-class list with strong selections from just about every wine-producing region. The eclectic flavors of Wood's cuisine make the traditional Chardonnay and Cabernet choices seem a little thin, so it's wise to focus on the Alsatian whites, red Burgundies and New World offerings.

The crowd
The summer associates from the big Midtown law firms rule this room come early evening, whereas the second seating consists primarily of the usual four-star-dining suspects.

Write a Review
Reader Reviews

mixed experience
Rick Meyers, Toronto, ON
July 16, 2002
We had a really great dining experience; but the staff was rude, and too ‘hard-sell’. Really put a damper on our outing even though the meal was one of the best we’ve had in ages.


local treasure
Terry Clarke, Toronto, ON
Oct. 09, 2001
I live less than 4 blocks away and just found this local treasure. It looks like a hair salon from the outside. Don't be fooled by the appearance, once inside the meal and the atmosphere are well worth it. I have had 20 meals in this place,and it was always splendid. Rack of lamb and duck Madagascar are stand out. Service is just marvelous. Best not-so-hidden secret in the city.