rom day one, Celestin has been packed with a well-tended, crowd. Chef/Owner Pascal Ribreau started attracting notice with his imaginative French menu is his almost as soon as he arrived in this space. The service - vastly improved since opening, elegant decor, a profusion of cut flowers, large tables, and the generous spacing between them all create a divine dining experience.

Meals get off to a rousing start, first with a little amuse, which might be a square crouton bearing a bit of caramelized onion and a sliver of gruyere cheese, or a warm caramelized liver in pool of watercress syrup. Then come crusty French rolls (available at the attached pastry shop, Le Comptoir de Célestin) that are so delicious I have to make a conscious effort to slow down.

Ribreau’s menu is dominated by fish and lean meats, accented with a cunning selection of sauce and infused oils. Winning first courses include an carry-over from Allumette; a tender, rabbit meat ravioli, with shallots, basil. The ravioli is a tender marvel, brightened up here and there with a delicate dab of olive oil. Lighter palates will also gravitate toward the potato blinis, a soft baked potato and cream cake, served with escargots, arugula and shallots on a puddle of pastis.

Entrées range from the most delicate compositions to hearty comfort food. In the latter category is a luscious lamb shank, so particularly tender one wonders what force is holding the meat to the bone. Served with clams - albeit bland - and chickpea frites, this is a big meal. Another hefty one is the pork chop tower; a thick chop suspended over a pink roast suckling pig, and that over an assembly of apple slices. All forming the tower balanced on a nut cornmeal pancake

Service supports the kitchen's efforts superbly. The staff at Celestin is thoroughly professional, knowledgeable and charming. One of course expects attentiveness, competence and skill in any restaurant of this caliber (and price range), but the staff here goes further, providing those innate touches that make a restaurant visit truly memorable.

There is no wine steward to guide you through Celestin’s exemplary wine list, though the waiters who we asked for advice gave informed and knowing suggestions. Wcan't help but think this restaurant deserves a sommelier. But that's about our only quibble with Celestin these days. - Jonathan Ray. Martiniboys.com.

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Reader Reviews

...but over all, excellent
J. Dub Toronto
One of the best meals I've ever had - amazing, amazing food. Try the chef's creative take on Surf N'Turf - Sweetbreads cooked to perfection along with a giant sauteed sea scallop in a smoked bacon cream sauce. If I was standing up during that first bite, my knees would have buckled. Also great for dessert: lime tart with lavender ice cream. The atmosphere is a little stuffy (understandable given its location) and the service didn't always come with a smile, but over all, excellent. I would definitely go back.


slightly low key atmosphere
Brian C. Toronto
July 1, 2003
Our first visit in May can be described simply as: delicious, impeccably presented, in a warm albeit slightly low key atmosphere. Probably the result of the crowd that night then anything else. The lack of knowledge from the waitstaff seemed out of place, but they were both friendly and attentive. Definitely will return. Would place this understated restaurant in our top 5 of great meals in the city. Similar to Herbs just north of Yonge and Lawrence, although more contemporary in decor and presentation.


the most distasteful server...
Ms. JAG, Toronto
June 3, 2003
We visited Celestine on March 6th 2003. Our seating was satisfactory, and the ambience nice enough. However, service was lacking. We were seen by a server after about 10 minutes, brought drinks ten minutes after that, brought some bread ten minutes after that...and finally our main course a whole hour after being seated. Our waiter was loud and intrusive. As a matter of fact our waiter was the most distasteful server I have ever met. Our meals were interesting enough, as Pascal served up his trademark concoctions. However, based on the service we would not return.