On the search for new grazing grounds? Try looking where you least expect it. On a tree-forsaken, wind-blasted part of Queen West, flanked by the Candy Factory Lofts, Bar One and the mental hospital, Caju is an inviting oasis - walking in there is like having someone put two well-manicured hands on your cheeks.

As cozy as a lounge, Caju’s decor is sleek and dramatic, with slick lighting fixtures, Jatoba cherry wood flooring, an elegant bar and a spacious dining room that flows fine when filled with eager diners. This agreeably shiny room makes you want to hunch your shoulders and huddle a little closer. It could be the sparks that fly between Mario Cassini, chef/owner, and partner, Tina Giontsis, who operate the place together.

The name refers the Cashew nut, a fruit indigenous to Brazil’s northeast, and this restaurant's cuisine is equally inclusive. Dining at Caju will satisfy your hunger and expand your vocabulary with menu items such as Frango Com Quiabo, Picanha and Lombo.

Bringing a Brazilian/Fusion to Toronto’s mainstream as Xacutti did with its well-executed Indian/Fusion, Cassini offers a small menu of enticing plates, while sticking to his Brazilian roots, all in a setting that would hold its own on a magazine cover.

Allow the food to dispel your chills - the yin-yang of pungent, grilled sardines on a little corn flan ( sardinhaus Grelhadas) with a fragrant herb and mango salsa. Tried was a thick Sopa de Feijao, a soup of puréed black beans and garlic as deep and rich as your daydreams; or the dense, grilled marinated shrimp (Camarao) tossed against a cayenne garlic and white wine reduction.

Diners choose from a small array of geographically specific entrées, such as Picanha: Grilled sirloin, with garlic butter, and served with farofa, crispy cassava chips and salsa. The seared chicken, a muskily sweet breast brightened by angu (polenta), spinach, in an okra sauce.

A few side dishes are offered; by all means get the Pao de Queijo, if it's not included with any of your entrees. This is a cheese bread that is served in Brazil in somewhat the way we have bread with our meals here.

Desserts didn't knock us out and the wine list is compact, but with lots of food-friendly choices at reasonable prices; the by-the-glass list seems particularly well thought-out. There's also a list of specialty cocktails, most of a Brazilian heritage.

With its playful menu, careful attention to ingredients and Mario Cassini’s intelligent, sensual cooking, Caju may be the year's most serendipitous discovery. The fact that it's in Candy Factory area makes it all the sweeter. - S.W.


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Reader Reviews

Nothing like what I'd read in previous reviews
Thom, Toronto
January 19, 2004
It seems like a lot has changed in Caju since it opened a year ago. I'm Brazilian, living in Canada for over five years. I wanted to introduce Brazilian food to my spouse, so we went to Caju. Mr. Cassini and Mrs. Giontsis created a very tasteful atmosphere for their restaurant, with clean and elegant lines, without sacrificing comfort. The reception was plain ordinary, nothing like what I'd read in previous reviews. The food was good, but too pricey for what was served. We got two tiny Pao de Queijo with our bread; those were the tiniest ones I've ever seen in my life, and we were barely able to taste them. I ordered Feijoada, and my spouse ordered Picanha; both dishes were well prepared and tasty. The Feijoada dish had very little rice and I after a very long wait I asked the waiter for a little extra rice; five minutes later I got a tiny amount extra in a small saucer. Later I was astonished to find a $3.00 charge in the bill for the minuscule amount of extra ric e they gave me. Caju could greatly improve the experience for their customers if they could bring back the warm and welcoming service I've read in previous reviews; our waiter offered very poor service, cold, unfriendly and slow. The food is good, but too pricey for what is offered. I hope they'll be able to fix these problems and fully develop their potential.


Stephen, Toronto
April 17, 2003
I have been to Caju twice, both times the food was worth the trip. The service is nice..... somewhat overpleasing and desperate. The atmosphere is better for casual summer dining and I looking forward to going back. Atmoshphere is well thought out and modern. Can be very noisy when more than half full, but when empty feels very hollow. hard balance to acheive, front bar looks nice, but never anyone using it. Impressively priced so you can pay more and expect more but this is suitable.


dining oasis!
Patrick, Toronto
April 11, 2003
I've been there three or four times now. The owner (the one who's not cooking up the spectacular Brazillian delights) is the nicest, most genuine welcome in the city. I've been to a number of places much more often than this, never with the warm reception I get here. No matter how busy they are (and they are becoming increasingly popular) there's always great food with service that makes you feel you're really glad you chose this little dining oasis!


Jeff, Toronto
Incredibly friendly staff, very eager to please. Food consists of a thoughtful selection of appetizers and mains with a Brazilian flavour. Nothing blew us away but everything was consistently good, especially for you pay. Don't skip dessert, trust me. A great addition to a fast evolving, hip neighborhood.


M. CAFE, TORONTO
Feb 9, 2003
BEEN TO THAT PLACE COUPLE OF TIMES, AND EVERYTIME I WAS TOTALLY HAPPY WITH MY MEAL.
LAST TIME A HAD THE BLACK BEANS SOUP AND A VEGETARIAN DISH MADE OF EGG PLANT. BOTH WERE DELICIOUS, HONEST MEALS.
THAT IS A PLACE THAT I WILL GO BACK.
THE STUFF IS ALSO REALLY FRIENDLY.