here's an ineffable quality to trends in the restaurant world, and for those without a keen nose for fashion, it's not easy to know how to keep up. One trick is to keep an eye on certain restaurant spaces around town. Over the course of years (and sometimes months), certain addresses will mutate and change, as fads bloom, then wither away.

Take the cavernous, subterranean room at 38 Wellington East, on the east side of the financial district. It used to house Vines, an ambitious establishment whose barroom setting and twenty-seven year life span marks, respectively, the height and the existence of the city's bistro craze. Now Bouchon - a restaurant similar to its predecessor in almost every way - is an ambitious establishment, designed to capture the new spirit of the times.

Bouchon is a folksy, wood-beamed French bistro that evokes Lyons, a region where co-owner and chef Jean Pierre (JP) Challet grew up. The name Bouchon, means "wine bar," in the Lyons region specifically. But it’s the flavours of Quebec that come through most dishes here.

JP is indisputably a chef with keen insight, a commanding presence in the kitchen. Previously as Executive Chef at Windsor Arms Hotel, and Auberge Du Pommier before that, he has fine-tuned a signature style that had earned him high praise and popularity in the city.

Bouchon’s two small dining rooms seat only 65, but tables are nicely spaced and comfortable. The subterranean feel and abundance of stained oak give the space a feeling of a wine cellar in France. This is a wine bar after all, and a space for J.P. to work his magic.

Consider his caramelized shallot and goat cheese tart, served in a delicate, crumbly pastry crust. Or the Lobster bisque, essentially a rich starter, very smooth in texture, boasting well-balanced pungent notes from the added pickled ginger and shrimp.

Bouchon’s mania for Canadian fusion flavors seems to work better with the bigger, more savory dishes. Boeuf Bourguignon a la Bouchon, for example, is the true player on the menu. It is a minor variant on classic dish, with a perfectly cooked tenderloin, dripped with Pinot-wine sauce and a deliciously rich confiture of glazed wild mushroom ragout on a generous cloud of potato purée with grace notes of butter. The best choice.

The same sampling analogy is carried on through to the wine selection here; this wine bar features more than 120 varietals by the glass, from robust reds to crisp Rieslings. An ambitious endeavor, but one that aims to please, not merely the foodies, but the average diner, with an average paycheck.

Bouchon is a very serious restaurant, even if its location is a wine cellar. But the fact that the high-end owners have inhabited it in the first place makes this east-district newcomer even more appealing. - Brad Jamieson


Write a Review

Reader Reviews

below par
ali toronto
Jan 13, 2003
food was delicious, however service was below par. waited a good 15 minutes before menu's were delivered another 15 before order, etc...lesson to be learned take at least beverage orders within 20 min of seating. I for one will not go back too many other restaurants to sample and to critique.


in a sweet way...
Nov 26, 2002
Francis Seles, Toronto, ON
I love Bouchon! I've been there twice and I am so glad to be able to say that it has been consistently a quality time. The food is so good for such reasonable prices, the atmosphere is cozy, and we've always found the waitstaff friendly and professional in a sweet way. you've got a really good thing going! Oh, and the specials and desserts are highlights.


perfect down to the bill
Nov 4, 2002
Rich Siefert, Toronto, ON
My wife and I celebrated our one year anniversary. I had planned this for some time, and had high expectations. Part of it was the occasion. The other part was in anticipation at Bouchon. We ate their with another couple and had a wonderful time. Everything was perfect down to the bill that was a much better bargain than Auberge du Pommiers. Staff was excellent and knowedgable and the food suberb. Thanks JP.


1st anniversary
Melanie K, Toronto, ON
Nov 2, 2002
This is not a first date place for dinner - this is definitely a place to go with someone special or for a celebration. My husband and I celebrated our 1st anniversary there last weekend. We had a bottle of Bordeau, and the chef’s specials, and they even allowed my husband to substitute something he did not want to eat for dietary reasons. Dessert was excellent, as was the service. This is a very sophisticated, upscale restaurant (at least for dinner).


Pleasant mistake
Linda Grange, Toronto, ON
Nov. 1, 2002
We dined at Bouchon on what we think may have been the first night. We thought we were going to Vines, but wre pleasantly mistake. But not much has changed in the way of decor. But boith our meals were supurb. Thanks for the treasure