ollicine is the hidden italian place your down-low friends and relatives would want you to take them to if they knew it existed. And you would, too, if you knew it existed.

Barrio : Get you're drink and techno on at this drinkery stradling Queen Street, where you're likely to ... Brassaii Jules SpaHa Wish

Bollicine is the kind of place that shows what happens when a small venue really trys with all its little might. From the cluttered entryway with its beaming hostesses to the toque-wearing crew at tables here and there to the breezy waiter who takes your order, there's not a surprise to disturb you - until your food arrives.

Not just OK-good, but very good. Like the Nizza salad (11.95), with Boston, romaine, albacore tuna. Or the well-repared Antipasto misto (9.95), with grilled zucchine, eggplant, with hot olives, goat cheese, and bocconcini. Shrimp salad (12.95) has Romaine, shrimp, granny smith apple, walnuts, and raisins. Bizarre little variations of risotto are a nice spin: Risotto ai funghi (16.95), Arborio rice with porcini mushroom, Risotto al gorgonzola (18.95) Arborio rice in a rich creamy gorgonzola, Risotto al nero di seppia (18.95) that each give you a new angle on the dish.

At the risk of enraging the little Italy mob, those who crave a home-prepared meal, a mildly sweet crushed-tomato sauce, and a delicate italian dose might consider bypassing the hallowed grounds of St. Clair and Ossington for Bollicine’s selection: Vitello Limoncello (18.95) is sautéed veal that has simmered in a tart lemon juice, with vegetables or mash potatoes; Vitello Siciliano (18.95) veal cutlets simmering in Marsala; La Scala (16.95) is a slightly bland dish of Yukon Gold potatoes seasoned with pesto, layered with tomato sauce, spinach, mozzarello, sliced tomatoes and parmesan. Ossibuchi alla Milanese (18.95) is a better choice, as it’s a sautéed veal shank with pungeant herbs and spices served with polenta.

You could spend weeks just eating your way round the big standard menu, The desserts are your routine Italian regulars: Tiramisu, Zuppa Inglese, Chocolate Hazelnut Cake. The Diplomatico is an innovative entry, though: a flaky pastry on the bottom and the top with a middle filling of alchermes soaked cake and zabaglione cream.

All in all, Bollicine seems determined to turn its modest neighborhood restaurant personality into a full-fledged community center.. R.D.


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Reader Reviews

...did you say fishnets!
Faye, Toronto, ON
August 29, 2002
here is great. It's a bit expensive but you get your money's worth. We went to the Cabaret party on Saturday night (they have one every Saturday) and it was great. Fire eaters and belly dancers and girls singing. The servers wear fishnets and corsets and the guy servers dress like Chippendale's dancers. It was a good show for $15. I don't know if there are any others like it in Toronto but it was very cool.