.444	93 Harbord		Complete list
orget run-of-the-mill traditional fare; forget the $7.95 buffet falafel. 93 Harbord, which opened last month, offers a very different approach to Middle Eastern cuisine. The menu is tightly focused - a half-dozen starters, a dozen or so mains, a few soups and salads - tossing the traditional out the window in favour of fused creations that marry new spices to such partners as salmon, beef tenderloin and lamb. The restaurant positions itself as Middle Eastern, but under chef Isam Kaisi, updated flavours dominate. "I like to play with spices," Kaisi says. "It's not traditional Middle Eastern food, but food made by introducing new flavours." The spice-phobic should exercise care, for some of Kaisi’s creations can make your eyes water. That's especially the case in appetizers such as the innocent-looking Beef-wrapped Asparagus. The grilled beef stands up well to a complex seasoning that includes pinches of black sesame and a jolt of tamarind sauce, plus the crunchiness of the asparagus. The seared scallops and shrimp make a nicely arranged dish in which the seafood is presented on Cumin apple rings, all in a pool of dill sour grape sauce. Entrées include organic beef Kibbeh - ground meat onions and pine nuts, stuffed into bulgar crusted shells (no need to worry, a separate sheet covers the lexicon of Middle Eastern terms), on a pomegranate purée served with a green salad and pine nuts, and a spice-marinated salmon filet, contrasted with sweet glaze of cumin-orange beurre blanc and served with a helping of mashed Yukon Gold. Even when his globe-trotting is at its most excessive, Kaisi brings flavours together; a braised lamb shank and Fareki served with pine nuts with a hint of yoghurt glaze is the culinary equivalent of riding the diplomats-only elevator at the U.N. But the lamb took to its seasonings agreeably and the sweetness of the yoghurt glaze made a gentle contrast to the sharp meaty notes. 93 Harbord for the spacious and quiet (sometimes) room, which is so relaxed you're tempted to linger. And a big raspberry to the person who recently did just that, apparently using the extra time to sneakily smoke a cigarette. Review this Place Reader Reviews not just about fast food falafels. A fellow Torontonian, Toronto November 21, 2004 I have eaten here half a dozen times since 93 Harbord opened October 2003, and I must say the food and service has brought me back along with friends, family and out of town visitors who are equally impressed with everything this restaurant has to offer. The lamb shank is mouth watering and easily my favourite dish but there is something for everyone including vegetarians. The wine list is well thought out and attainable. If you're unsure of what's what, the lexicon on the back of the menu clarifies ingredients etc., (although some "know it all's" see it as redundant, other's are open and appreciative to learning something new). Thanks 93 for showing us that Middle Eastern cuisine is not just about fast food falafels.			93 Harbord WHERE 93 Harbord Street Toronto, ON PHONE 416 . 922 . 5914 AREA The Annex CUISINE Middle Eastern COST $$$ HOURS Sun, Tues., Wed, 5:30 - 10:00 PM Thurs. - Sat, 5:30 PM - 11:00 PM PAYMENT INFO American Express MasterCard Visa