t’s expensive, undeniably delicious and can be the perfect nightcap on a successful evening out. Or an even more successful evening on the couch. Champagne has long been a beloved necessity of the upper echelon, but not more is it reserved for CEO types and rappers.

Champagne's popularity is such that France is trying to figure out how to make even more of it (the name comes from the region; if the label boasts "Sparkling", it just means it's not from that particular region of France) from the limited fields of the Champagne region. Meanwhile, new companies are producing wonderful bottles, while the mainstays are continuing to prove why they deserve their reputations. Over the New Year, Champagne will be flowing freely at parties and family gatherings, so it’s the ideal time to know which bottles to buy.

Diebolt-Vallois Brut Blanc de Blancs: One of those 'grower' Champagnes (ie, the grapes are from one farm, and the production is relatively small), this well-priced bottle (at $40, some consider it a steal) is made up entirely of Chardonnay. A light Champagne, great as an apertif.


Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Sainte Anne: Fruity, with a light-to-medium body, this is a great Champagne to serve with dinner. Also, the farmer keeps a hilarious blog detailing his only-in-small-town-France adventures with sheep. It'll make you want to quit your day job and buy a vineyard.


Fleury Rosé Brut: Using a biodynamic system I don't understand, Fleury produce a strawberry-scented pink Champagne that is as good to look at as it is to drink; pink lights remind one of slow sunsets, spring, cocktail rings. It's reasonably priced at $50, but I'd reserve it for the really special occasions, possible ones involving the exchange of diamonds.


Moutard Brut Grand Cuvée: Aged for at least three years in their cellars, this Champagne is sadly not actually made with mustard. Made entirely with Pinot Noir, this bottle has a rich taste, with warm notes of butter, almond, and brioche.


Pierre Gimonnet Brut Blanc de Blancs: Brisk and crisp, like a lovely fall day. This all-Chardonnay grower-Champagne has a firm acidity, a green apple character, and a clean finish. Priced at $40 per bottle, it's also served by the glass at Thomas Keller's Per Se, which is about as high a recommendation as we know of.


Pierre Peters’ NV Grand Cru Brut Cuvee De Reserve: The flavors lean toward yeast and grain, and has been described (in a good way) as bready, but the palate is rewarded with ample richness and fine balance. Bottles retail at $40 and are well worth it. *The “NV” in the title means non-vintage, or grapes that have been harvested in different years.


Pierre Peters’ Cuvee Speciale 1999: Pierre Peters’ is a growing and dependable brand. If you enjoyed their NV offering and want to step up to an aged selection, this is the way to go. The price climbs to $70, but the French know that only superb years deserve to be awarded vintage status. If this was crap, they would have been discarded it long ago. Made from chardonnay grapes; long notes of baked apples.


Blanc de Blanc d’Ay: Gaston Chiquet grows chardonnay in the pinot-rich village of Ay. His ancestors have been making Champagne there since 1746. Simply put, the man knows his stuff and you can trust him to give you a quality bottle. Try the regular Blanc de Blanc bottle for $40, or step up to the 1998 Club Millesime at $65 a bottle for the next level of delicious Champagnery (no, it’s not a word. But it should be).


Bollinger Special Cuvee: A strong-flavored Champagne, comprised of a many vintage reserve wines. With a brut taste and a $74 price tag, this one’s not for beginners. But breaking out a bottle at a party is sure to impress that wine snob you know. Made most from Pinot Noir, with some Pinot Meunier thrown in for good measure, it's fermented in old oak barrels.


Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve: Another potently flavored bottle, but still sweet enough to appeal to the inexperienced. The $54 Champagne should be a hit at any dinner party as the light but distinct flavours mix perfectly with quality cuisine. However, be sure to serve it with something worthwhile rather than wasting the delicious beverage washing down your latest Big Mac. Or just skip the Big Mac and wash it down with a second bottle.