eslie Gibson is in the midst of an L.A.-esque moment at her new College Street restaurant. Three years ago, the former co-owner of Xaccutti decamped to L.A., where she had been running celeb-centric restaurants Bella, Parc, and Shag. Hearing that her old space had become available, she knew what she had to do.

In its early years, Xacutti was the place to be, drawing hipsters and later wannabes who would tool over from the 'burbs in their Land Rovers. Alas, Chef Brad Moore closed Xacutti at the beginning of the year and re-located, if only temporarily, to Eleven Restaurant (which has since changed to The Garden @ eleven). With the Xacutti era over and the space vacant, Gibson was back in town, in her old space, revamping it into her own pastel-hued restaurant.

Fast-forward a few months, and the space is now a breezy addition to College Street; Grace Restaurant is a delicious blueprint for any major restaurant aiming to go casual. Gibson has taken the idea of the modern eatery and layered it - albeit, unintentionally - with every L.A. allusion it could carry - beginning with the canopied exterior that marks its spot on College.

Gallagher may have come up in the strictest of kitchens, but Grace captures a relaxed style and tumultuous atmosphere that may have been his real calling all along.

Named after Gibson's grandmother – who "graduated from U of T in 1926, and married a farmer" - the restrained, elegant space harks back to its Ellipsis days with pastel walls curving above the leather banquettes, all the way up to the double-height, tinplated ceiling. Using natural-fall hardwoods and dark leather, Gibson, with designer Patty Cuccia, outfitted the space with iconic items such as wide dinner chairs of dark wood and tanned leather, puffy, cream-hued banquettes, and unadorned plank tables. Walls are lined with vintage photos from a private collection.

Chef Dustin Gallagher – who has climbed the gastronomic ladder, finishing a six-year tenure as sous chef under Chef Susur Lee, practices haute "Modern Farmhouse" cuisine at Grace, a contemporary style "mixed with traditional flavours inspired by family gatherings and Sunday dinners."

With this new form, he loosens up stylistically and there are no food pyrotechnics, but the food remains exceptional. Just fresh, ingredient-driven dishes, blatantly evident of his farmhouse intentions. He skillfully balances flavours and textures in dishes such as a camera-ready asparagus salad. Mini potato and soft-boiled egg slices are placed over crunchy asparagus with olives and tomato. It's a simple charmer.

His homemade gnocchi gets treated with porcini and oyster mushrooms. A classic chicken pot pie sports a mysteriously delicious and impossibly light crust. Many will appreciate the crowd-pleasing, sweet-spicy barbeque short ribs with coleslaw and roast sweet potato.

This Farmhouse business succeeds by infusing homespun favourites with chic twists. Desserts, too: A apple tart and maple ice cream is very much in keeping with the venerable restaurant's homegrown modus operandi.

Now that Gibson has reclaimed her space to lift it above its baser instincts, the room resembles the earlier generation Ellipsis (not a trace of Xacutti remains). But instead of being semi-suave and hedonistic, Grace is an unhurried and inviting space.

503 College Street, Toronto, ON
416-944-8884