t might be a stretch to call this the Granville Warm-Up but, similar to UnWined, Whineo's has become a chilled out Bohemian scene where the wines and beats are really just excuses to bump into old friends from art school. Unlike UnWined though, the party doesn’t shut down early, but segues into the late evening when the boys and girls, good and lubed from the wine and drink specials, get down to some easy-going downtime.

This Granville Street labour of love displays a careful attention to detail. Once inside, the dark-wood floors and trim of a classic era combine in unique ways. Crystal chandeliers and tabletops provide an atmosphere that is both hip and comfortable. The bar itself is of 18th-century style, with the wall behind adorned with bottles and bottles of wine. Art Institute alumni Morgan Docksteader designed the room, lining the walls with black and white pictures and giving the space a modern, neo-baroque look and feel. Tables are somewhat crowded together, but the staff uses its well-honed talents and good nature to keep everyone blissfully happy.

Although a wine bar at heart, the menu boasts a mix of local ingredients and traditional tapas that explores Vancouver’s Ethnic diversity. Executive Chef Karl Gregg, a Vancouver native formerly of Red Door and the Spectra Group, has created a menu that rediscovers classic dishes and infuses them with international influences. His creations have been developed using many local ingredients and suppliers, including Day Boats and Farms, to provide extremely fresh and flavourful dishes.

The crowd is casually well-dressed, and the lax door policy is- well, there isn't one. Whineo's manages to attract those cool enough to get into places more exclusive, but clearly not interested in the hassle of a line or cover. Towards the back are elevated enclaves with couches and pillows for private parties. Order from the late-night menu and nibble on interesting plates while you drink.

So, what disappoints about Whineo's? Not much. Sommelier Keith Nicholson (nu naked + casual cuisine) has created a list that is based on the merits of great wines. Selections bare names like Cat’s Pee on a Gooseberry Bush, White Truck and Fat Bastard. Whineo’s young, fruity and inexpensive wines may leave certain, semi-pretentious cork dorks wanting more, but bar hoppers and fans of the Granville District continue to admire this funny lass for what she has, not for what she lacks. -R.B.