For all the precision that went into creating its glittery interior and stylistically design excess, you'd think that Watermark was a museum on the beach. And yet the menu is curiously downplayed by Chef Lynda Larouche (Brent Davies’s Teahouse). It’s a fusion of Asian and West Coast inspiration: rock-salted, crunchy shell-on garlic chili prawns, deep-fried tempura chili smelts, and the like.

A lacquered ginger duck breast, for example, is served with Asian greens and tamarind demi-glace. Pairing shaken beef with rice noodles turns out as poor as it sounds, with three ramekins of snails, although crisp and moist without being too chewy, seemed a little chalky, with bits of rind adrift on top like tiny tombstones. Instead, try the surf clam vongole, with strong flavours of garlic, chili, white wine and olive oil; or the straightforward tuna tartare that show ups flavourful and fine. Likewise, the filet of salmon is about as exotic as mains get at Watermark.

In many respects, Watermark is a more inventively executed version of previous such adaptations: it boasts an ultrasleek design and is home to one of the nicest patios in town. But be warned; on loud weekend nights, the restaurant can sometimes seem as if it is about 90 percent bar. - R.L.

Patio Noise _________________________