n these times of market fluctuation and political turmoil, everything seems rushed. We rush from house to the bank, from bank to stockbroker, from stockbroker to discount grocery store. Decadent dining seems like a faint memory from the past. Now would be a good time to take a moment and revert to more leisurely times, to revisit proper fine dining.

The newly opened Voya could provide just that pre-recession (precession?) escape. The restaurant, located within Loden Hotel, Vancouver's hot new boutique hotel, barely feels like a Vancouver restaurant. There’s a regal feel to these luxurious accommodations that will put you in mind of 17th century England more than 20th century British Columbia. Walk though the lobby and into the restaurant and you’ll soon be admiring the marble-wrapped fireplace, three phenomenal chandeliers suspended high from the ceiling, and walls of large mirrors that open up the room. A very dynamic and exciting, yet understated design.

The space has a capacity for eighty, with a private room for corporate functions, and a bar area where you can grab a gourmet snack after a hard day at the office. White lacquer tables surrounded by rich brown wood chairs with blue upholstery negate the use of tablecloths, and chocolate banquette seating frame the room. It’s warm and comfortable, but with a definite upscale feel. Take a moment and enjoy it; you'll pay for it later.

If the room itself doesn’t make you feel like royalty, the service certainly will. Expert Mixologist Jay Jones (previously at West and the Donnelly Group has stacked the cocktail list with old favourites such as Sazerac as well as adding his own touch with drinks like the Something Pink cocktail, a flavourful combination of Maker’s Mark, watermelon, lime, and peach. The wine list is the responsibility of General Manager Robert Herman and includes hard-to-source local bottles and some of his favourite labels from around the globe. Herman himself is typically on hand to assist in wine pairings, but the servers are already quite well-versed.

The kitchen is led by Vancouver chef Marc-Andre Choquette, who we know best from his years at Lumiere. Choquette’s dishes focus on fresh local ingredients, somewhat simply prepared, but with flavours that suggest an ineffable complexity. The mini sliders of beef, tuna and shrimp seem to be the popular choice while other small tapas-like plates abound. Fresh oysters, grilled lamb kebabs, and coconut crusted prawns constantly arrive at the bar tables.