As at UnWine’d, the chef's short, lean menu is packed with insider gestures, of-the- moment ingredients cultivated from our local pool of high-quality local, sustainable sources: a Roasted Pork Tenderloin ($10) served with apple and onion confit, thyme risotto & apple coulis; a Poached Wild Salmon ($13) in ginger lemongrass broth with baby bok choy, cherry tomatoes & sesame oil drizzle; Pistachio Rack of Lamb ($15) with spring thyme risotto & merlot gastrique; and a warm Chevre Mesculin salad ($11) with oven dried tomatoes & balsamic reduction.

Thankfully, the servers do a great job of putting you in the know without making you feel like every question is a black mark on your report card. They're unabashedly nice, even slightly maternal. The night three co-workers and I had to cobble a dinner table out of stools, the waiters kept the flow of plates consistent and steady so we weren't setting food on the floor.

Owner Jeff Reid (Crush Lounge), of course, is one of the local golden boys, and began eyeing the space that was previously Panama Jack's as a good spot for a lighter, later-night lounge, even a bit of a holding pen for unbridled fun on busy weekends.

A seriously lavish and decidedly upscale, UnWine’d draws the beautiful and hip to its lush seating areas to enjoy this tapas and wine service and private conversations about who knows what. But don't think that UnWine’d is all monied superficiality because the bartenders pours the premium cocktails fast and strong, and the decent loungy vibes that drop straight into some deep funky house tracks by the time the night starts rolling.