verything you need to know about Unwined’s livelihood can be divined from the not-so-cryptic name: It's a great, slightly obscure word, one that a staff member recently defined as "tempting the appetite by grazing on small plates and sharing great wine." Cute, but sophisticated grazing is also accomplished with their international selection of single malt scotches, cognacs and ports. Classic and contemporary Martinis are also available as are a wide selection of domestic and international beer on tap.

It's a wink of a place: UnWine’d Wine and Tapas Lounge, Jeff Reid's new cocktails-and-nosh restaurant on Howe Street beside the Holiday Inn Vancouver, sparkles coyly from its elusively cozy interior. A fireplace, splashing peach tones across the upholstery of the banquettes and leather chairs, and iron chandeliers hanging plumb from the ceiling set the tone. The 160 capacity lounge offers up two patios from which to choose. And all whimsy stops at the service bar where a library of spirits awaits.

A rich dark leather menu lists quizzical little items like "Baked Canadian Double Cream brie with dried apple and walnut crust" and "Charred Ginger Beef with Sweet Peppers & Chili Gelee" Ask the servers for instructions on how many "savories" and "small plates" dishes you should order, and you'll get an educated response.

A small plates menu matches each of the house drinks ($8.50) and though a few of the drinks missed the mark, the bar offers over 18 great wines by the glass. The inspired tapas-only menu springs to life at the early 4:00pm opening time, knocking off any competitive edges.

As at UnWine’d, the chef's short, lean menu is packed with insider gestures, of-the- moment ingredients cultivated from our local pool of high-quality local, sustainable sources: a Roasted Pork Tenderloin ($10) served with apple and onion confit, thyme risotto & apple coulis; a Poached Wild Salmon ($13) in ginger lemongrass broth with baby bok choy, cherry tomatoes & sesame oil drizzle; Pistachio Rack of Lamb ($15) with spring thyme risotto & merlot gastrique; and a warm Chevre Mesculin salad ($11) with oven dried tomatoes & balsamic reduction.