Big-ticket chefs going it alone is hardly anomalous, but you can't help but cheer when their lesser known brethren take a crack at the marquee (especially when the little guys have toiled at corporate venues like Milestones and Feenies). Two such underdog chefs, Allan Bosomworth (ex-Feenies) and Karl Gregg (Whineos), have recently opened Two Chefs and a Table on the edge of Gastown.

Two Chefs takes over its from a dingy, defunct coffee shop. With layers of fresh white paint, an entirely revamped kitchen, and new furnishings, the retro-themed room is suddenly stylish. Within, an attractive wall mural with a pastoral touch (basic tree branches and roots) and some fancy light fixtures add character to the room. Large and communal, the titular table joins a scattering of smaller tables and bar seating, many spots affording a full view of the widely open kitchen.

A long-time fan of open kitchens, I’m all about watching chefs at work. Thus, my definition of best-seat-in-the-house is either at the communal table with friends or dining solo at the bar with the chefs as my “date;” it's culinary entertainment at its best. Not just a dining destination, Two Chefs is also a catering and event planning company. Already popular with local business types and area dwellers, the catering arm can handle crowds into the hundreds.

Open daily for lunch, the bistro also serves dinner from Thursday to Saturday. The more affordable lunch offers dishes such as The Big Salad for ($7.50), tasty sandwiches ringing in at around $8 and burgers for $8.50. Also, look for a noodle bowl with veggies, chicken, or shrimp and a daily rotation of sauces, including Thai, Bombay curry, and Szechuan. At brunch the place is packed with locals who finally have somewhere to grab weekend eats like berry pancakes, eggs Benedict, and omelets, all under $10.

The latest chef's table menu consisted of five delightful courses, beginning with local greens with cured meat, pasta with braised lamb and seared tuna before hitting the main event: a choice of Alberta sirloin or pan-seared cod. For the denouement, dessert options included a cheese plate or peaches and cream. Price tag for the whole shebang: $35 (and the portions are large).