urn of the 20th century rail travel was integral to the development of Canada’s culture. PM MacDonald’s dream of a country united A Mari Usque Ad Mare (from sea to sea) by the rail was eventually realized, though at the cost of many lives and hard labour. It is in homage to this history (and the physical location of the space) that the TransContinental was created.

In the space’s liberally and fantastically interpreted railway station, there is not a sedate or sterile square inch within the entire space. Dinner here is not so much like a night in a waiting station as a night on the Orient Express, as the restored space is a classic gem not unlike the interior of a museum.

Owner Eli Gershkovitch's vision to transform the retired Canadian Pacific Railway station into a classic dining space was realized when architects Soren Rasmussen and Malcolm Candler took on the project. By re-working the 7,500 square feet space, Gershkovitch (who also owns the Steamworks brew pub next door) has clearly attempted a monstrous undertaking.

Enter TransContinental and you're smacked with a space that has an air of majestic self-importance (much like Canada’s early 1890’s politicians). A grandness of ballroom proportions with fantastically high ceilings, art-deco gilding and elaborate arched windows are evidence enough of this (thank turn of the 20th century industrial tycoons). The wood- trimmed dining area showcases puffy booths and signature oil paintings, gently spoofing the rules of railway station-eria while simultaneously embracing them.

Executive chef Cale Price's menu is not one of uniform excellence, so a road map is in order. The entrées stick close to the standard steakhouse faves, which include the formulaic likes of Grilled Alberta Beef, salmon Filet and the ubiquitous Chicken Breast. Fortunately, it also includes a few less common dishes along with the option of a table d’hôte, which shows the kitchen has a care beyond the clichéd.