Whip it good. No, I’m not talking about bondage or, for that matter, anything of the sort. The Whip Restaurant and Gallery doesn’t involve leather, chains or whatever it is you may be in to. This whip is, fittingly, a gallery, a drinkery (sure, that’s a word), and a restaurant. Though the name may imply an identity crisis of sorts, it merely aims to separate itself from the gimp, straps and electrode crowd (hey, I’m not judging), while remaining Cat Woman approved.

Recently taken over by new management with a flair for food and drink, the Whip has undergone some significant changes. Some such alterations have met with very vocal protests from a nacho loving patron (dude, seriously, chips + cheese + microwave. It’s not that hard). However, for the most part, the changes are worthy of applause. Because of its former reputation as a casual hole in the wall, the Whip has some convincing to do in order to entice new clientele. Gone are the days of yore, when Whip life was pitchers of beer, chip platters, and the occasional chicken finger. Now, you’ll discover inventive menu items, appealing in their simplicity, with alluring names like Wild Mole Poblano Salmon (made with chilies and, yes, chocolate) and Yellow Fin Tuna with a Black Bean Vinagrette. The new menu also offers Jamaican Jerk Chicken Sandwich (red pepper pesto, applewood smoked cheddar) and a delightfully original Black Bean Rice Miso Burger.

The new owners of the Whip have taken serious chances that seriously impress. Through innovation without eccentricity, they manage to appeal to foodie hipsters that favor world flavour. The menu is exotically tempting, without being trite or condescending. Impressively, the inventive menu doesn’t intimidate. The Whip’s clever Olive Cheese Lovers Platter (yes, it is exactly what it sounds like, and it’s amazing) embodies their food ethos: invention coupled with an easy appeal.

Now that the Whip has enticed you, good luck finding it. Not quite south enough of Broadway to be considered part of the Main Street collection, the Whip is far off the usual food trail. There’s not much around it. Foot traffic, aside from the neighbouring lofters, seems unlikely. Tucked into a brick complex, as charming as the joint itself, the Whip thankfully takes you off the beaten path for some refreshing peace and quiet. It’s away from the busy commuters on Main, but if you’re willing to look for it and move a little left of centre, it is worth your while. The building itself bares a resemblance to an old brothel or saloon (it could be the remarkable, wooden, railed balcony that overlooks the bottom floor); only this brothel is plastered with local art and photography. While much of the work is incredibly fascinating, it, like most local art work or photography, is incredibly overpriced. Regardless, you don’t have to buy it, you can simply appreciate looking at it.

Though entertainment at the Whip is inconsistent (local residents have been applying pressure to turn down the music), the Whip’s off beat appeal remains. Guests enjoy art on a visceral level, free of a bland managerial desire to bring in crowds. The Whip Restaurant and Gallery makes me long for the olden days of DV8, before it burned to a crisp (damn panko fryer). And, while it may be a bit out of the way, it’s nice to take a left every now and then. –B.J.