fter 17 years of success on Cambie Street, The Tomato Fresh Food Café has packed up and relocated over in Kitsilano, bringing its familiar menu of organic and locally grown produce along with it. While the old spot will be missed, the new location is bigger and loaded with character. Though the interior is refreshingly free of inappropriate designer excessiveness, the new Tomato embraces the angularity of designs ripped out of other area spots.

The food and atmosphere, however, are much the same. Chef James Campbell still serves up dishes familiar to long-time regulars - like Westcoaster Salad with Indian candied salmon and the signature bouillabaisse du Pacifique – and still manages to serve it up an unpretentious style. The menu is a seasonal card, bringing in new dishes to accommodate whatever ingredients are in season. The menu also offers a daily “blue plate” special for the adventurous and thrifty (how’s that for a personality combination?) foodie.

Apart from the sautéed wild sea prawns and the seared bay scallops (on their good night), I couldn’t find an appetizer to get too excited about. I did enjoy the tomato and bocconcini salad, but it’s a very rare occasion that I don’t. Mains are the real deal, here, with the grilled 5 oz. beef tenderloin ($28.00) being a beautiful marbled cut of Nicola Valley Ranchland Natural beef (antibiotic and hormone free). Plated with grilled peppers, chipotle butter, buttermilk mash, this is a great option.

The pan seared Pacific wild salmon ($23.00), is also a great cut, served with organic greens and grilled asparagus rosemary. If you go the route of the house specialty, the Bouillabaisse du Pacifique ($25.00) - served here with scallops, prawns, salmon and market fresh seafood - you’re bound for a tremendously satisfying meal. Fresh, plump seafood – and a generous portion, too – albeit (sigh), in a slightly bland a saffron broth.

However, bland aptly describes the chicken breast I tried on a different night. The free-range breast reminded me of Swiss Chalet version, an association underscored by its unimaginative adornment with carrots and a Toberone treat. Here, however, the breast gets the mustard-tarragon treatment, and clocking in at a whopping $24.00. And no mass-produced chocolate treat to go along with it.