everal pubs around town aim for an old Irish aura. While some attain mild blarney-and-Guinness success, others end up as repulsively tacky, Disney-style atrocities. Conversely, the most authentic of the lot, Gastown's The Irish Heather, has bragging rights.

Free flowing pints, decent food, and a clientele that one would gladly share a basket of chips with made the joint deservedly popular. So, when owner Sean Heather announced plans to move the Heather and its sisters, Shebeen whiskey bar and the Salty Tongue deli, pints were not raised by all.

The Heather et al now reside across the street from the old location. My favourite place to settle in is at the bar, though comfortable tables toward the back might be better for cool autumn nights. A huge copper wall gives the room an industrial feel and a glass chandelier adds a hint of glamour. Though pretty, it's not as cozy as the original and the question remains: is Vancouver ready for this modern a take on Ireland? So far, crowds have flocked in.

In my younger years I spent a fair bit of time in pubs and I tend to associate them with nachos, chicken wings, and cheap beer. Don't expect the familiar pub touchstones at the Heather. Here, the kitchen is in the capable hands of Colleen McClean who hails from Rare and Lumiere. She’s pushed the food well past decent. The bangers and double mash ($14) come with 3 tasty handmade pork sausages and flavourful sweet onion gravy. There are no chicken wings; instead McClean does a chicken in a Thai green curry on jasmine rice; it would put most Thai restaurants to shame. The fish and chips come light and crisp and there’s daily pasta and a bacon cheese burger for those looking for something more substantial.

This is definitely a top-notch watering hole, especially if you’re a whiskey fan. The list is deep and even includes a single malt from Japan. There’s a page or two of beers and, surprisingly for a pub, there’s also a pretty good wine card.