Despite high-end eatery aspirations, So. cial Magasin is not in the same league as Raincity Grill and C. At its best, it's a bar and grill with hipster undertones, and that's a very good thing indeed. Maureen Fleming and partners, Chef Sean Cousins (Ocean 6 Seventeen, Raincity Grill), Bob McCammon, and Canuck alumnus, Kirk McLean, have taken over Capri's old space and whipped it into a restaurant-come-oyster bar, complete with a side charcuterie/butcher shop.

The now-gleaming, post-reno heritage site glistens with rejuvenation. A polished, pressed-tin ceiling shines from overhead, mosaic-tiled floors merge with concrete, and glass chandeliers and plush red chairs round out the warm vibe. Tables are covered with crisp, white linen, and beveled glass window panes peer out onto the streets of Gastown.

Chef Cousins excels at butchering his own meat and filleting his trout. His regional menu ranges from casual (a superb Fraser Valley butter lettuce salad with poached egg) to refined (chili honey-glazed duck breast). A small charcuterie plate boasts a serving of pate, pork rillette, pickled beets, and cornichons with a flat-bread exclamation mark. Though the fragility of the crisps proved too tenuous to withstand the mighty weight of the pate, the dish is still a fun way to start the proceedings. The salmon gravlox ($11) is unconventionally delicious, served with root chips and an arrangement of greens, providing a mild, nutty compliment to the fresh zing of the dill. Somewhat surprisingly, the Spot Prawn ($16) fell flat, despite its rich-sounding, chili-poached menu description; though, the smoked paprika yogurt and pickled slaw added a bit of depth.

For the mains, So. cial amps the power. A maple-seared salmon with glazed baby beats ($24) practically jumps off the table. One bite held more adventure than the entirety of starters. With the aid of an unusual cured pork belly and clam emulsion, this was a hit.

Cousins is clearly at home with complicated dishes. The unctuous, near-perfect, air-dried beef ($27), served with a bordelaise sauce and mound of slightly salty frites, made my day. Though sable fish with seaweed broth ($27) is typically dull, Cousins's is a winner; go figure. The fish, subtly sweet while nicely salty, is plated with roasted mushrooms and squash dumpling. The chili-honey glazed duck ($26) is enhanced by a rich carrot ginger emulsion, while the Cornish hen ($27) is smartly outfitted with sage-roasted fingerlings and a red wine sauce.