While the roasted Hecate Straight halibut was perhaps the freshest and most straightforward dish we tried, it ran a close second to the grilled marlin, which was the biggest surprise of the meal. Served with an herbaceous and peppery salsa verde and topped with red tabiko roe, the lingering flavours this dish inspire as only good cooking can do.

Arguably, the jewel in owner Brent Davies’ crown, Seasons is a destination restaurant, and cannot bring in the income his other restaurants do without a certain amount of large party business. Yet this place was (and still is) a coup for Davies, whose other restaurants are located in Stanley Park, Coal Harbour and on Granville Island – locations all so perfect that you can’t help but wonder at the man’s good fortune. - D.H.