ur never-ending search for the perfect medium-rare steak brings us to Saltlik, a chain that started in Banff, then Calgary. This third Saltlik takes over the address vacated by Bruce, re-inventing the space with opulent surroundings. Luxe fittings, a huge custom chandelier, and a backlit wine-rack featuring a 1,200-bottle wall of wine accessed by rolling ladder own the space.

As downtown’s newest steakhouse, Saltlik is a cool understated space complete with seating on multiple levels. Tried and true is the best way to describe the food and the ambience here, and the menu has a deliciously familiar meat lovin’ spirit. The comfortable interior is arranged on three different dining levels and a martini lounge for lighter meals or drinks. Long tables with padded bench seating run down the center of the room, lending visual appeal.

There’s lots of beef on the menu, serious salads, and an accessible wine list; specialties include an open-grill marinated skirt steak; the braised lamb shank will leave you worn out and well satisfied; the truly righteous can chow down on the California-cut New York steak, Alaskan sablefish, the Double-fisted cheese burger or the great salad with roast duck and pecans. Or try the El Diablo caesar salad.

Prices are at peak though, compared to other local purveyors of high-end steak and ale, so bring your Gold Card and your stomach. - R.B.