The only problem with all of this is greed. I had to remind myself on my second visit not to overload the circuits with terra bread, but there's also Spanish pressed fig bread somewhere in the house. There are a few desserts, all of which are made offsite - a chocolate ricotta mousse and a crème caramel.

Kurtis Kolt has been lured in to manage the whole package. He's chosen a solid wine list, featuring 10 red wines, 10 whites, and 10 sherries by the glass. Salt also features tasting flights of wines; try a flight of three two-ounce tasting glasses of wine with three selections of meat and cheese, and three condiments ($29), all paired up for you by the post-mixology boy.

Salt is a place that certainly knows how things are done, but throws it all out the window and does something original. It is, in short, an innovative thing in this town, and something that speaks plainly about the development of the local restaurant culture, about the size, the design, and then makes an abrupt left turn. - R.B.