t took a good couple of minutes to get over the name of the new joint on Nelson. The name Relish conjures up vivid mental pictures of my tomato-skinning days in Granny’s sweatshop kitchen, doing the manual labor necessary to streamline the most famous of her Mason jar condiments. It was the only Christmas or birthday gift she ever gave.

Many a country fair blue ribbon came as a direct result of the teamwork of my brother and I, regardless of the fact we were omitted from every acceptance speech. She thanked her patience; we thanked her for easing up on our knuckles with a wooden spoon when the work was done. Relish Restaurant and Lounge sports the same homegrown spirit, for the contents within are pickled and sweet, just like grandma used to make.

The pure size of Relish is only appreciated from within, for what looks like a strip mall hair salon is actually a cocktail-vending behemoth. The dining room is partitioned from the lounge with grand glass doors, and the contrasting social moods features ambiance on demand to suit your mood. At first look, the décor feels vacuous, but once inside, you realize that the undeveloped vertical real estate highlights the distinct fireplace and dominating windows. Deep booths tempt with suede upholstery rich enough to take a spoonful of, and low lights meet low pretension at the heart of relaxation. Relish is so chill that even the flat screens in the lounge, a seizure-inducing décor component by my usual standards, was managed well by the architecture. I only thought about tossing my keys into them once.

Relish feeds you like your hip grandmother would. A fixed price menu has been created for those too immersed in their conversation to decide, and a journeyman’s wine list has enough surprises to tempt even the most highbrow connoisseurs.

Like yours truly and his bruised-knuckled bro, Relish has two secrets that make the mixture worthy of a spoonful or five. The secluded patio, complete with dramatic wading pool, err, decorative waterfall is large enough for tennis. It holds many a warm-weather worshipper. Summer lovin’ + Relish patio = gawking like a fool. Paired with young and friendly service, and an energetic and ever-present management team, the sweet mood is a product of thoughtful personalities. Stop by Yaletown’s newest den. You’ll relish Relish like grandma’s relish. - C.L.