Renowned for its vibrant club scene and late night antics, the Granville strip has long gone under the foodie radar. There are certainly exceptions (Whineos, Sanafir) but, as a rule, discerning dinners generally eat in Yaletown and party on Granville. Hoping to change the habits of Vancouverites, Red X Red (RED²) Tapas Lounge and Vodka Bar has set up shop on Graville, fusing a sophisticated menu with a neighbourhood-friendly party atmosphere.

Red X Red is another project from Andre Garrison, who owns the adjacent G Sports Bar and Grill. Although there are a number of TV sets scattered throughout the room, the theme here is entirely different from the sport-centric vibe next door. This restaurant is all about Eastern European tapas plates. As a bonus, it boasts the biggest vodka selection in the city.

Red X Red has over 110 seats with a lengthy bar and both high-top and banquette seating. Sit at the front of the restaurant where the garage-like door opens to the street and watch the passerby or head to the back for a dark and cozy atmosphere. Exposed brick, eclectic lighting and a faded mural of Lenin add to the room's charm. The music is varied, and quite loud. This is not a place for intimate diners with your grandparents.

The term "Eastern European food" conjures thoughts of sausages and sauerkraut and Red X Red obliges. However, Chef Chris Dignan uses the traditional as a template, but infuses it with innovation. Sure, you can get perogies, but they're stuffed with Dungeness crab with fava beans, duck confit with onion, or sweet potato with chorizo. The menu is rounded out by homemade sausages and a good selection of seafood, such as the crispy arctic char with a flavourful crushed cauliflower in brown butter and Russian scallops with speck ham and buttered savoy cabbage. The food has personality, and it's refreshing to see such unique dishes so well executed.

On my first visit, I started with fresh oysters, worked my way through a beautiful baby beet salad with blue cheese, and candied walnuts, and tried the sausage with crunch spaetzle and tasty red cabbage sauerkraut. Though the risotto with peas and mint need a touch more flavour, by my second visit the chef had added smoked pork hock to the dish, giving it the depth that I had craved. Visit two included the crab perogies, arctic char, and a tender beef short rib stroganov. Chef Dignan did not disappoint.