It turns out, the menu is as balanced as the room is, with emphasis on each of the four tastes: sweet, sour, spice, and salt. The Sichuan green beans are exquisitely spicy and tender, and served with salted ground pork. The Fiery Eggplant is wok seared and firm, with flavours that are subtle yet complicated.

Red Door’s wine list has two excellent things going for it. Every bottle is priced well under $100, and there are plenty of choices suitable for the spicy and varied nature of the food here. The Blasted Church Pinot Blanc is an excellent wine for the not-so-spicy menu selections, and pairs beautifully with the eggplant and other wok fired dishes. Popular too, will be the Gewürztraminers – Canadian, Spanish and Alsatian selections – and Rieslings.

Regardless of what you choose to drink, be sure to try either of the beef dishes. The Seven Flavoured AAA Black Angus Beef is seared medium rare with a medley of ginger, garlic, hoisin, peanuts and chilis, and is, as my date reiterated, “so fucking good it’s to die for.” Be sure to try the Shaking Beef Tenderloin served with a black pepper and lime rub, too. This Vietnamese specialty doubles as a balancing act of bold and fresh flavours, and is a sure crowd pleaser.

Red Door falls into a category of its own in Vancouver. This upscale-casual, decidedly non-fusion restaurant won’t kick your wallet’s ass, but you’ll leave knowing you’ve experienced something unique. In bringing us Red Door, the Spectra Group, who are responsible for the Milestones and Bread Garden chains, have for the most part avoided the corporate feel that often accompanies such endeavors.