f the name of the place isn’t a tip-off, then a glance at the seasonal menu at Rare Two is. Taking its name as a working title, owners Brian Fowke and Tim Keller are honouring titular rareness by treating their restaurant like a newborn baby. Rare Two (which started life as "Rare One" is being touted, for better or worse, as a trendy chophouse for the foodie set. According to a press release, the nascent restaurant “is about searching for sustainable and wild stocks, local and regional ingredients and turning it into a rare gem.” Heady stuff, but apropos as Rare spotlights quintessential BC flavours with ingredients chosen for their sustainability and, well, rarity.

The boys will need exceptional uniqueness for this tricky location to work; with such a high turnover rate (Bis Moreno of late), Rare Two will have to anchor a serious hook to lure in the crowds. With only 55 seats in a simply decorated room, the owners have kept things simple yet comfortable. The room is furnished sparsely, but still manages to keep a warm and welcoming feel.

With Quang Dang (West Restaurant), one of the city's youngest internal-rhyme-chefs (he’s 26) behind the fare, expect a fresh and ever-changing menu divided into three sections (Table d’Hote, Seasonal and Tasting). Start out with a taste of exotic house specialties like the Hedgehog Mushroom Ravioli with white truffle foam and Rosso Jelly, scallops on the half-shell or the rabbit liver pâté (both from the Tasting Menu). The remainder of the small dishes, including the pan-fried oysters paired with red peppers and garlicky Spanish chorizo vinaigrette, won't disappoint; while a pan-seared weathervane scallop with a moist, tender and meaty roast quail in spiced honey, served with sweetbreads will surely delight.

Fair-sized entrées include the Beef Cheek with puy lentils and an Alberta flatiron striploin served alongside braised leeks. Local morels ($16.00) were sautéed with garlic and a good dose of chilies. Cornish game hen, sablefish, and steak round out the menu.