fter a long time in service as Lesley Stowe Fine Foods, the new prototypical food emporium Quince (1780 West 3rd Avenue) has been channeled by Andrea Jefferson (the Metropolitan Hotel) into a vision of what its former customers feared most: a pretty take-out café fueled by well-made dishes like osso buco, beef short ribs, lamb shanks, and given a not-inappropriate expensive-restaurant gloss.

Jefferson’s spot offers up refined take-out items, like citrus-braised squab, albacore tuna carpaccio, gnocchi, duck confit and osso bucco. Need Sweet? Grab the crème brûlée or chocolate mousses. $6 to $10.

There goes the neighbourhood. - D.E.