emember when Yaletown was more pedestrian friendly. There were bagel joints (remember Benny’s?), pizza parlours and the occasional high-end establishments. Over the years, the area has undergone major changes, with slick, new spots overtaking the quaint. The latest of which has knocked Soho Billiards on out of the way (the pool hall, by the way, is in more shiny digs at 1283 Hamilton Street).

With Plan B in place, the space is all sleek and chic with doses of warm tones and chocolate hues sprinkled liberally throughout the lounge. Cozy white leather seats now brighten the room, and an upholstered bar begs you to sit and drink. In fact, you could come in just for the drinkage, as there are plenty of innovative cocktails, bubbly treats and a fine wine list.

But it would really be a complete shame to miss out on Chef Ryan Zuvich’s culinary wizardry. Formerly at Bin 942, Plan B owners lured him back to town from a stint in London to man the stoves at the Homer Street restaurant. Good move, as this creative and uncompromising chef gets the details right, and his instincts are correct; the pan-roasted diver scallops with crisp Serrano ham ($17), for prime example, is a must. Scallops are seared perfectly on the outside, while still tender inside. The crisp texture of the ham and the accompanying artichoke chips were a well-thought-out contrast.

Also recommended is the yellow Chanterelle Risotto with cipollini onions and braised veal cheek garnish ($16.00). Also on Zuvich’s menu is the Alaskan Black cod with maple butternut squash risotto. Zuvich’s execution with this dish is flawless. The duck leg confit is served inventively, with bacon sherry dressing and tempura egg yolk. While the duck was an instant hit and it was a welcome adventure to crack the yolk so it oozed over the dish, I could have used a little less vinegar in the dressing.

Happily, dessert doesn't involve any complicated ordering. The hero item currently seems to be the Muscato poached pear, but there is also lemon with lavender milk foam and a tempting cheese selection on the card.