fine coq au vin may not be the only mark of just how French a restaurant is, but sampling its goods is without a doubt one of the most magnifique ways to kick off a meal. Chef Frank Pabst's meats are outstanding - complex and intensely flavorful - as are his Roasted Wentzel Duck Breast (Le Canard Et Les Gnocchis) and his Procuitto Wrapped Rack of Lamb (Le Carre D’agneau). The rest of Pastis sports a thick French accent, too, from the Provençal décor to the dense wine list to the fragrant bouillabaisse to the attached boulangerie—a must-stop for take-away treats from Michael Rhoads’s bakery.

Even if it didn’t boast a cosmopolitan interior of butter-yellow walls and bright art, a handsome, diverse clientele, and attentive service—Chester would be worth it for such culinary lovelies as foie gras with rhubarb confit and just-off-the-boat Steamed Mussels, White Wine and Shallots. In fact, chef Frank Pabst's food just gets better and better in the face of Francophobia. With great attention to ingredients and detail, Pabst offers a Provence-focused menu of affordable first courses that includes a Steak Tartare, Pommes Frites and earthy oyster mushrooms, and a cream of fennel soup with grilled shrimp, spinach, and fig- and anise-flecked croutons. Entrees are just as ambrosial: local Salmon, Mushrooms and Fresh Peas and roasted potatoes. Even the bar snacks are above par: Pabst's rosemary-scented Goat Cheese Soufflé is, quite simply, required eating. - R.B.