ver notice how we’ve become so terribly complacent in our downtown square-footage and seldom venture beyond our comfort zone. While there is certainly culinary diversity on Robson, Mainland and Burrard Street, we will be missing out on the countless gems, if we never venture past the cobbled sidewalks of Yaletown. Look beyond the mandatory entrance-ready BMWs and well-tended designer-clad blondes and venture out to new areas. It’s tough, to be sure, as it’s so very enticing to slide into hipster-eria… and to not seek other jurisdictions.

To set an example, this writer recently drove a carload of foodies to the seaside town of Steveston to dine. The destination, Papi’s, had an unexpected fire-induced hiatus a year ago, but now Chef Ken Laci is back in full force. The drive was indeed long, and the fantasy of taking a relaxing stroll through the picturesque town before dinner was crushed by incessant rain showers, but fortunately our visit to this eatery with a similarly ambiguous title made the trip worthwhile.

The general design of the restaurant is fine, but nothing to brag about. Given the time frame it took for the restaurant to reopen (one year), one would have thought that there was ample time to remodel and spruce things up, but sadly such amenities as diamond encrusted coat racks were not in the budget.

The dining area, while completely devoid of the big-budget energy of other new Vancouver hot spots, is nonetheless neat, tidy and comfortable (come to think of it, not even the finest establishments gone the diamond encrusted coat rack route). The open-kitchen and dining area surrounding it are inviting. The bathrooms are small. Think Greyhound bus small.

But Papi’s boasts a stronger, more complex appeal, in its offerings; despite holiday crowds and the fact that the place is somewhat new, the Papi’s team had their act together. Meals are well timed and drinks replenished rapidly (sobriety is for slackers). The crowd was not as young and hip as you’d find downtown, but accepting a few tables with wrinkles and blue hair is fine when it dilutes the botox and cell phone crowd.