Eift is an amalgam of everything cool about Vancouver . It lays steps away from Vancouver’s crown jewel, Stanley park, provides refuge for seawall trekkers (1,500 an hour pass by Lift’s moat-like walkways), and bypasses the competition with the best waterfront patio in the city.

Bob Lindsay made every effort to impress, bringing us this martini-nirvana (incidentally, whatever happened to Krist Novoselic?) and casual-fine dining location. He scoffs at those who think that he has ventured too far in his post-Monk McQueen efforts. This place is all about great food, beautiful people and an only-in-Vancouver experience. With the Olympics and a $500 million convention center extension coming (not to mention Vancouver’s unprecedented growth), Lindsay isn’t worrying. “There’s just so much happening in Vancouver right now,” he says, “We’re really happy about it.” And so were we, especially after a pair of Lift’s signature martinis. Told that I needed a Face Lift, I indulged in the powerful and lubricating libation: fantastic. My lunch date contentedly sipped a lively Bo-bella, with Stoli Raspberry, peach schnapps, and fresh juices.

My companion aptly remarked that from just about anywhere on this 100 seat deck, “you feel like you’re right on the water,” which is because Lift’s foundation is a three thousand square foot pad built on cement stilts inches above the Pacific Ocean. Lift offers “whet” plates (slightly larger than typical appetizers), which will do more than whet your appetite, as well as a selection of entrees.

Mix and match as you like. To wit: the caraway ahi tuna and salmon roll was a winner, though not nearly as Japanese as it sounds. The ahi is seared rare, rolled in crushed caraway and wrapped in lightly smoked wild salmon. This fresh combination made great bedfellows with a refreshing cucumber and fennel salad lightly dressed and topped with a lemoncello sorbet.

Let your taste buds marvel over the baked wild salmon crusted in ground horseradish and served with a cucumber and tomato gazpacho. This mélange of summer flavours has a hint of spiciness and aromas redolent of the fresh seaside air. Rustic and satisfying, the grilled lamb loin with petit Pont Neuf (stacked pommes frites named for Paris’s oldest bridge) comes on top of a mellow salsa verde.