s Vancouverites tire of fusion cuisine, chefs take note and go back to basics. This season, menus focus on one country each. One cuisine. One realm. I applaud this trend (or non-trend as the case may be). So, when one of Vancouver's most creative chefs, Flying Tiger's Tina Fineza, was hired to create a simple French menu at a new East Vancouver bistro, I was ready to celebrate.

Off for a night in France via Le Faux Bourgeois, Oooh la la: French accents, French kisses, French wines, French fries (yes, we know they're from Belgium; just roll with it). Owned by Stephan Gagnon (ex-Jules), Andreas Seppelt (Go Fish), and Marcelo Ramirez, Le Faux Bourgeois is a charming white-tiled room with an old-wood rustic-ness, and retro - though not stale - décor.

Gagnon has a background in restaurant design, which explains the attention to detail pervading the 50-capacity space, from dining area to bold-yellow exterior. Similarly, Chef Fineza - who will stay at Le Faux… for the opening period - built a simple but strong menu centered on traditional bistro fare.

Start with a salade de chevre chaud with warm goat cheese, greens, fennel and walnuts; the escargots de Bourgogne, classically done dosed in garlic butter; and the tarte Alsacienne, a puff pastry with caramelized onion, bacon and ricotta. You can also snack on a charcuterie or daily-changing cheese plate. For mains, check the chalkboard mounted on the side wall for the daily chef’s specials. This is the secret to getting the freshest, most seasonal dishes.

I tried a perfectly cooked roasted ling cod, served atop savoy cabbage and accompanied by chanterelles and clams, as well as a flavour-packed organic chicken pot au feu. The delectable fries will make any dieter throw in the towel. Order them alone or try the steak frites with a choice of red wine shallot jus, green peppercorn cream, or house butter.