ating Korean barbecue, at places like Korean Wonder Barbeque, for a fine example, is as fun as it's filling, because you actually cook the marinated meats over your table's charcoal grill, a difficult business after a night of carousing but a pleasant chore nonetheless.

A dozen pickled, grated, garlicky condiments are provided to jazz up the already tasty fillets, and if you're still hungry post-BBQ, the menu offers whole grilled fish, rice bowls, and hearty soups to tide you over until the 2 o'clock closing time. - R.L.