espite its location in a tacky yellow brick building, Koko’s aims for traditional Japanese dishes and nearly hits the mark. The golden interior of the sushi haven is somewhat lackluster, but the tearoom, complete with the lowered table and floor cushions for that “authentic experience”, more than makes up for the décor. An assortment of maki is on the menu (I suggest the Koko Deluxe) and sashimi for the adventurous salmon lover. Business lunches are a success here as service is speedy yet polite and the presentation of your meal is an enjoyable adventure into the realm of Japanese cuisine. - E.J.