ith candles, pastel walls and casual service, Jules is a small, warm place conjuring thoughts of bygone Parisian bohemianism (thankfully without bygone Parisian bohemians). Co-owners Stephan Gagnon and Chef Emmanuel Joinville have created an inexpensive neighbourhood spot, outfitted with a keen eye for architectural detail that evokes classic French bistro. The space, former home of Sapphire, has undergone major tweaks. Simple, Parisian details, like soft lighting and gleaming black-and-white tiled floors round out the French aesthetic.

The menu starts with salads, country pâté and other rustic French offerings, and flows seamlessly through large appetizers — a couple of which can easily make a light meal — into main courses. The Tartare de Saumon with Lemon Butter Toasts is a great contender. It's hard to find a more alluring dish than the Duck Foie Gras in ice wine with beet chutney. Dishes like the Salade Nicoise ($8) - laden with potatoes, bell peppers, tomatoes, olives, hardboiled egg and tuna - might as well be entrées.

Rather than playing with unusual pairings, Chef Emmanuel Joinville, who most recently manned the stoves at Soupspoons, finds and exalts the big, warm flavours of classic French combinations. The Cassoulet Toulousain ($18) with insipid smoked bacon proved disappointing, even with the addition of the Duck Confit. Clearly a better option, the delicious Beef Tenderloin ($21) with a morel cream sauce, is plated with ratatouille, and scallop potatoes.

The chef shows a sure hand with red meat. I can't remember a plate of food in the last year that I enjoyed as much as the rich, moistening, fat 12 oz Rib-eye ($21) with peppercorn sauce and a mound of delicious crisp pomme frites. Given the competition in the area, quality ingredients and deftly cooked, big, thick steaks seem revolutionary (beware of Robespierre). The free-range Roast Chicken, soft, light, and butter infused, goes beautifully with a thyme glaze and mashed potato puree. Other dishes, if not quite perfectly executed, are lively and enticing, familiar yet distinctive. A Boeuf Bourguignon Linguini ($14) gets a special assist from soft mushrooms, red wine, bacon, and pearl onions. The Moules Frites ($12), with their well-matched components, are a standout, while firm crusty bread goes well with a sauce of white wine with garlic and parsley.

Simple though refined, Jules's food is largely light and greatly appealing; there's nothing wrong with that, and there's a lot right about the look and location of this bistro. - R.L.