hen Hapa Izakaya opened on Robson Street a few years ago, Izakaya plates seemed exotic to many of us, and the idea of a scattering of tons of small plates passed around the table was something of a thrill. These days, however, Izakaya seems like a perfectly ordinary dinner option. In subsequent years, a half dozen similarly themed spots have sprouted.

Though it's right in the heart of the Kits restaurant row, a second Hapa Izakaya location churns along, but the Izakaya rush is over. But say this for this location: it has put much effort - albeit not as much as the first - into squeezing as much as they could out of the old Urban Well space. Still, the spare soothing space will certainly put you in the mood, as the lighting is warm and minimal and the black wood and candlelight adds atmospheric warmth.

The restaurant is wicked in its quirks but not without purpose. Owner Justin Ault has taken liberties with the menu, as there is much on the list, both upscale and down, which can lead to amusing combinations.

The best dishes, though, are those that stay close to the Japanese ideal. The Gyu Kushi, for example, is a plate of classic beef skewers of shredded beef, brightly spiced with plenty of pepper and onions, with the beef so tender that it dissolves in the mouth.