Maybe it’s the declining economy, the rising number of people hitting middle age and thus midlife crises, or the seemingly frequent natural disasters, but restaurants featuring upscale comfort food are on the rise. Or maybe locals are just craving, shall we say, uncomplicated fare. Whatever it may be, the number of inexpensive-but-still-hip cafés and eateries are indeed increasing.

Take newcomer Grub, for recent example. This Main Street eatery is angling on making a tidy profit from of those with simple and hearty dining aspirations. Having started in the Toronto restaurant scene at Bar One, eventually opening her own place in Shanghai, restaurant owner Ling returned home to Vancouver, She spent some time working at other local spots like Public Lounge to get a feeling for the city. What she found was the need for reassurance in sustenance form; more than just meat and potatoes.

The décor alone suggests nostalgia in its attempt to appeal to many generations. Multicolor flecked wallpaper reminds us of an old aunt's home, while cocoon-like chairs evoke a mod throwback to a simpler time. Blond wood tables are accented by a bright yellow wall-length bench, rounding out this kitschy mishmash of furnishings.

Grub is all about hearty, healthy, and fresh food. The bar menu is a stable selection of antipasto platters including meat, vegetarian, and seafood options, as well as salads, such as lamb sausage with wilted swiss chard. The bar serves a plethora of throwback drinks such as the Casablanca, with gin and Spanish wine, or the Great Gatsby, with rosehip tea and brandy, served in a rose water coated glass. For a gathering, three types of punch are served in the requisite bowl with ladle and mini cups to help get your mind off of the rising cost of fuel.

But the mains are the real reason to go to Grub. Changing frequently, with 2-3 meat and fish dishes daily, as well as vegetarian and vegan options (including vegan desserts), they are inspired by a range of ethnic influences, though there is none of that fusion business here, expect more French country than Alain Ducasse. Mains such as half roasted chicken with rosemary and lemon, corn, and cabbage slaw, or cumin chili crusted red snapper with an artichoke and olive couscous, are sizable and all under $15 a plate. With only 15 portions of each made daily, this food is selling out. –C.S.