The dining room is warm and cozy; rough-sawn cedar beams, character chandeliers, well-worn wood floors with its wrought iron screens on windows add touches of Provence to an otherwise industrial space.

To be confronted with an affordable redux of quintessential French fare in this day speaks volumes to the depth of the schism in our society and the sheer breadth of pains our local restaurants are taking in vying for our attention. The idea that sophisticated dining can be had in smaller versions for smaller prices, while not sacrificing a sophisticated setting is very much appreciated. Thanks, George. - S.W.