ot to be outdone by Gastown’s incessant restaurant openings, Yaletown is now drawing diners back with a scattering of new venues. One of these entries, Flite, takes over the space that was the abandoned space by the old Lucky Diner on Hamilton Street.

The entire space has undergone a major makeover and is barely recognizable from its previous incarnation. Plush seats and soft lighting replace banquettes and fluorescent brightness. Tapas plates replace reuben sandwiches.

Owners Patrick Greenfield, Marnie Campbell, and Chef Rick Munsen have developed a concept for the restaurant that revolves around wine flights, of which there are currently five choices. Choose from aromatic whites, mixed-bag whites, Chilean Red, California Red or the hodge podge of reds and you’ll receive three generous pours. There are also many varietals by the glass, and of course, by the bottle. And there’s a cocktail list on the way.

We arrived on a late Tuesday evening and the room was remarkably busy for a place in its first week of opening. Service was prompt and friendly, and the waiter had clearly studied both the food and wine menu of the day. Sans attitude, he answered our questions – and there were many - without the usual annoying ums and ahs or any trips to the kitchen.

The menu lists small plates, pastas, and sides, so we ordered up a few and anticipated room for dessert. We soon learned that the ‘small plates’ really aren’t all small plates at all: While the spinach salad with Okanagan goat cheese ($8) and mussels are the expected size, the free-range chicken breast with wild mushroom jus, the lamb medallion (both only $15), and all of the pastas are a full-on meals. I questioned if the chef knew anything about food costing. I don’t want to see yet another restaurant in this space close.