With the mains, often overshadowed by their sides, all of the time-tested gimmicks are on display. The beef tenderloin ($32) is pan roasted and paired with braised Kobe short ribs to extract every bit of flavour from this otherwise one-dimensional dish. The pan-seared rainbow trout ($26), a hearty and very satisfying dish, is firm and flavourful, with enough presence to stand up to its kurri squash and mascarpone risotto accompaniments. Served on a significantly soggy mushroom and beet purée, the braised veal cheeks ($24) is excessively braised and glazed with a strong saffron and pine nut butter.

Other mains include a seared Ahi tuna loin with bacon-creamed cabbage ($30), an oven roasted sable fish with Sunchoke gratin ($27) and the oven roasted lamb sirloin ($28) with a Merguez Cassoulet Terrine.

The desserts occasionally flash innovative. Best of the lot is the fig-based sticky toffee pudding (all desserts are $8) which arrives with vanilla ice cream and mint (naturally). The chocolate plate turns out to be a predictable medley of, um, chocolate: white and dark supplemented with brownie treats.

As an upshot, FigMint certainly has staying power. Humphries' artistry will continue to lure customers to this designer-clad cocoon of serenity and high-priced bliss; unless, of course, it's all a figment of your imagination. -R.B.