<o you remember that Fresh Prince episode where a large, surly, potentially dangerous man catches Will and Carlton, scantily clad and in the company of his wife? To convince the would-be-cuckold/murderer that he's imagining the entire event, Will and Carlton flail their arms and chant, "it's all an illusion," to little avail. That was a great episode.

Moving on. Replacing Remington's in the Plaza 500 Hotel, FigMint is cooking up some fine flavours. The resto-lounge, one of the more ambitious new eateries of late, features "modern European cuisine made with local ingredients" in the hands of Executive Chef Lee Humphries (formerly Chef de Cuisine at Elixir at the Opus Hotel). A hip and stylish joint, Figmint is indeed real. So real, in fact, that it's a play on words (okay, that didn't actually mean anything).

Evoke International Design has managed to spin a sleek dining and drinking area out of a formerly dull and under-utilized space, dividing it into a fussy dining room and a freewheeling (the best kind of wheeling) bar, where the food is neither über-expensive nor budget (I'm talking to you, bourgeois). The lounge, featuring a striking white quartz bar, connects to a middle, small-plates dining room, eventually leading to the main space.

Banquettes, upholstered with stripe fabric from Paul Smith (who also designed the uniforms) and crinkled-paper lampshades by Frank Gehry make FigMint's design scheme rife with name-dropping potential. Also, heavily sugared signature cocktails are created by local superstar mixologist (think, lab coat), Daniel Hawkins.

It didn't take long for FigMint to make a significant impact on the foodie scene. Far removed from the downtown core, Humphries' eclectic plates make it worth the sojourn. This self-taught young chef has brought an opulent sensibility to his all-day menu. Like the décor, the fare at FigMint swings wildly between extremes. At its best, it is romantic and elegant, while at its worst, it is insanely misjudged.