hree perfect, tart cherries nestled into a wedge of creamy Brebiou cheese. A melting crumb of honeycomb lolled against the Fourme D’amer blue. The server slides a glass of chilled Wild Goose Autumn Gold down the bar. Sweet, tart, and crisp, it was a necessity I thought I could live without, until I sipped…

Yes, for a song and a dance and a tasty morsel or two, Commercial Drive’s newest wine bar certainly does the trick. Of course, the song was courtesy of a bag lady, and the dance from a drunk, but, hey, it’s just part of the Drive’s charm.

Don't, however, let that undervalue DeVino. This little wine bar is owned by Nicoletta Grippo, who moved her other creation, Dolce Amore gelateria, next door to make room for the 1,500 square foot tasting eatery. The small, simple plate idea is by no means novel - it has already been done in Vancouver at Salt, et al., but there is room for such things on the Drive and the subtle fineries of this new place don’t make any effort to outshine the colour of the ‘hood.

The idea is simple – try as many cured meats, imported cheeses, and creative condiments dreamed up by former Aurora Bistro chef, Hugh Carbery, as you can. If you don’t feel like choosing, let the kitchen decide and come face to face with your inner cannibal over things like Castellano chorizo, buffalo bresaola, or saucisson sec.

The meats are paired with dollops of port jelly or Guinness and maple mustard or whatever else Carbery has whipped up that evening. The cheeses are approached the same way, tumbling out over fresh fruit, or things like fig and whisky preserve or a quince ginger gelee.