In fact, all of Cru’s appetizers are as unforced and appealing as the staff that recommends them. The menu is intricate and imposing. Tables can order from dozens of plates that run the gamut from a side of seafood tartares (tuna with daikon and cucumber and (salmon with dill).

With his entrées, Leggett still hedges a few bets, but not enough to a cause second-act slump. A serving of seared ahi is elevated to new heights by a tart soba salad, a flash of soybean sauce makes a lacquer-bright ahi sparkle. A wildly popular crispy duck leg confit, served with a warm, and perhaps overbearing bacon dressing, was a mild disappointment, but the balsamic-glazed duck breast was roasted to perfection, sliced into medallions, and popped onto a nicely molded mascarpone polenta and impressive jus.

Lamb shank (oh, do it again!) is beautifully prepared in a white-wine reduction and pairing it with pancetta and white beans is as savvy as pairing Stoppard with Gwyneth. Now that I know Gesualdi can knock my socks off, I want nothing less than fork-driven lust.

It’s not over; Taylor has come up with an easy-to-read wine list. Well chosen wines are colour-coded and listed under headings of crisp, mellow, luscious, juicy, smooth, and big. It's a short list, no more than 75 wines in total, but expertly drawn.